   |
San Diego
Reader Gastronomic Ballet In my many years of dining out, I have never been stood up by a restaurant date, but there’s a first time for everything. My would-be escort intended to rendezvous with me at the new Villa Capri in Carmel Valley after his dental visit. He went home for a few minutes of shut-eye and didn’t awake until the next morning. I dined by myself and found the experience refreshing. I hadn’t been to Carmel Valley for years. In the past, I found it a dizzying experience to endure the twists and turns in the road. The new Highway 56 makes it a breeze to turn inland. The eastern part of North County, once serene and low in population, is now brimming with glass-and-steel office buildings, many perched on hillsides. From the moment Villa Capri opened, in the same shopping mall as Spices Thai Café, diners who work in the area and word of mouth brought in throngs of people. It’s operated by Salvatore Ercolano and Antonio Viscito. The former gave Bella Luna, with its moon decoration and superb cooking, to the Gaslamp. But a dispute with his co-owner left Salvatore in the cold. He is part owner of Come On In, a fine small family café on Torrey Pines Road, but he searched for over a year for a new location. He is from Capri, Italy, and he and his family have been in the food business for ages. For him to be without a large restaurant was like a dancer lacking a stage. It was serendipity when Salvatore ran into Viscito, who wanted to leave Scalini, where he was a chef, and start his own restaurant. Viscito is from Amalfi, Italy. His cooking is smooth, subtle, without harsh edges. His sauces are a wonder — I kept searching for a spoon to lap up the mustard sauce that accompanied the shrimp appetizer and the pecorino cheese sauce for chicken Romano. Since I expected the arrival of my friend at any minute, I ordered enough for two. Each course was a gastronomic ballet. Each ingredient in harmony and ravishing to the eye. Ordinarily I don’t select two appetizers, but Salvatore insisted that several order dinners and I sampled his proscuitto and caciotta cheese, which is a staple in the homes of Tuscany, and Salvatore prepares it himself in the manner of his father and grandfather. The cheese, placed in a mold, is creamy without being sweet, firm without seeming hard. It’s served with endive. The way to eat this appetizer is to pack cheese and thick slices of imported proscuitto into the pale yellow endive. When you bite into it you get three flavors at once. This is an appetizer that should be shared — one stuffed endive is enough to enlighten your mouth. The aforementioned prawns (gamberoni alla senape) are a marvel; prawns flamed with cognac are finished with shallots and whole-grain mustard sauce (both $9.95). For my pasta dish I ordered tagliatele al salmone, a broad noodle prepared on the premises tossed with smoked salmon, vodka, and a touch of cream. This was one of my delights at Mama Anna’s, and it’s well-prepared here. Salmon with pasta is also a fine way to start a meal because it’s mildly salty. One order is enough for two or more. If you are a chicken lover, don’t miss the pollo all Romano. A chicken breast is pounded, lightly breaded, flavored with garlic and marjoram, and floated on a pecorino cheese sauce. It arrived with a mound of mashed potatoes that has been put through a pastry tube and topped with a perfect twig of marjoram. Carrots and cauliflower complete the dish, a bargain at $14.95. I had entered Villa Capri at about 6:00 pm, and by 7:15 every table and banquette was filled. By this time I realized that my friend would not show up, and felt self-conscious about taking up a table. I waited for my car and driver outside. My one visit may prove a harbinger of the future. The interior, with a green glass wall, flowers everywhere, and multicolored banquettes, is not found in shopping malls. An extensive luncheon menu either fixed price or a la cart is brought in 40 dinners a day, more than can be found at the restaurants in the Gaslamp where most close for lunch. A low cost childrens menu, either for lunch or dinner, offers two pizzas, two pastas. New Restaurant Opens
Doors FINALLY an Italian Restaurant in Carmel, which has all the expertise and quality of a fine dining room downtown, without the drive or parking problem! Villa Capri is inviting and comfortable. You can relax and bring the family together over a delicious meal at a price you can swallow! Two experienced Italians are better than one! Villa Capri is owned and run by two of the
nicest guys you could meet. Master Chef Antonio Viscito hails most recently from the beautiful gourmet restaurant SCALINI’S near the Del Mar Racetrack which he helped open in 1987. You will delight in his wonderful culinary prowess as he tempts your palate with sumptuous dishes designed to give a delectable tour of Italy’s most beautiful Southern Regions. The menu boasts an exceptional variety of casual gourmet dishes which will satisfy the most discerning of tastes, including the children, who will love the pizza and pastas made ‘just for them.’ Chef Viscito is passionate about preparing good fresh simple flavorful food with a splash of interest, to keep you coming back for more! Together, these two charming and friendly Italians hope you make VILLA CAPRI your dining room away from home. A casual place to bring your family together for the most important meal of the day any night of the week. Villa Capri Dining Around Villa Capri is a new gem in Del Mar Two consummate restaurant pros, a stunning new location and real Italian cuisine, it all adds up to a marvelous combination that is now at work in the Carmel Valley area. Villa Capri is the culmination of hard work and dreams by Sal Ercolano (formerly at Bella Luna and co owner of Come On In, La Jolla) and partner chef Antonio Viscito (formerly at Scalini’s). The beautiful Villa Capri is oh so contemporary in decor and style, complete with pastel and natural tones, a nice fireplace and high tech lighting. The menu is a fusion of styles originating from the hometown regions of both Italian born owners. Villa Capri is destined for success for various obvious reasons, but it’s the food and the wine list that will steal your heart and palate with salads such as the Insalata Palmito (avocado, hearts of palm, tomatoes and arugula)…simply sensational! or the Insalata Verde (spinach, sundried tomatoes, sliced mushrooms, gorgonzola and balsamic vinaigrette). Antipasti starters such as Mozzarella Caprese, Calamari fra Diavola, grilled vegetables, steamed mussles and clams or the eggplant parmigiana also will kick off your meal in a tasty manner. Pasta lovers will be delighted by a dozen different dishes, from Ravioli Caprese and gnocchi alla Sorrentina (homemade potato dumplings with mozzarella, basil and cheese) to the robust meaty flavor of rigatoni Bolognese. Many will rave about the tagliatella al Salmone (smoked salmon, vodka and cream). The Secondi main entrée selections include such delights as sea bass sautéed in tomatoes, garlic, capers and black olives; filet mignon in a red wine peppercorn sauce; veal scaloppine flamed in cognac with raspberries and cream; grilled half chicken in rosemary garlic sauce; cioppino and several other choices. Villa Capri features a wine bar (ideal for connoisseurs), daily lunch specials and even has a kid’s menu. Find this spot in Piazza Carmel (Highway 56 at the Carmel Creek exit, just East of I-5). Call (858)720-8777.
|
Special Events Deserve Quality Catering. For catering requests, call 858-720-8777.
Chula Vista
